In my opinion male fragrances
have been going downhill for a while. Everything
ends up being some sort of androgynous mix
or just an experiment to use new perfumery
notes with little thought about what we are
trying to achieve. For this project I really
wanted to explore some new territory but most
important to me was that the end result had
to have character. The fragrance should be
instantly recognisable and perform superbly
throughout use.
The top of the fragrance
is strong and dynamic with a rich mixture
of spices including pepper, clove, cinnamon
and nutmeg that have been coupled with an
incredibly distinctive Chinese tea oil. It’s
a combination that sets the tone for the entire
fragrance. That natural almost smoked note
remains with the spices as the fragrance develops
to add more herbal notes. Here the clary sage
plays an important role along with the lavender
that I used from Grasse. I’ve also added
an extract of mate, a small Argentinian plant,
which gives an earthiness to the body. After
about an hour or so the moss, woods and patchouli
begin to establish their presence and combine
with the initial themes to build the platform
for the later stages of the fragrance. One
of the aspects of the creation that I am most
pleased about is how it keeps its profile
throughout. Each stage of its evolution leads
to something special. Purely in terms of technical
performance this fragrance ranks amongst my
best creations. Combine that with the introduction
of accords which are not commonly used in
mainstream perfumery and you can perhaps understand
why I will be fascinated to see how people
respond to my work.
I have really enjoyed following
my own intuition and I am very proud of the
result.