I have to have an idea
of what I am trying to create before I start
a perfume. Some perfumers seem happy to do
initial mixes and see what takes their mood,
but I just can’t work that way. I have
to have something to go for at the start of
my work. It may be a particular smell - like
Central Park on a summer’s afternoon,
or something completely abstract - like friendship.
It’s only when I’ve got the idea
fixed I can then get down to translating it
into a perfume.
The idea that inspired
this fragrance was energy - positive energy.
I wanted to create something like an electric
shock if that doesn’t sound too strange.
Something that could galvanise you, change
your mood, get you going, put a skip in your
step as soon as you applied it or even smelled
it.
One of the greatest “get
up and go” fragrances of all time is
the original Eau de Cologne by Jean Marie
Farina. Spectacularly fresh, immediately popular
and with an appeal that has lasted centuries.
In many ways it had exactly the right profile
for this project which was to create a special
fragrance which rises above fashion trends
of the time and represents a true expression
of the art of perfumery.
Having this fragrance
in mind and evolving the idea both technically
and olfactively gave me the direction I needed.
First off you need that
hit of citrus that takes your breath away.
I used Italian bergamot at the top of the
fragrance and underscored it with a Mediterranean
lavender from Grasse. The two of them together
give the fragrance a very powerful, clean
start. You can’t keep that citrus freshness
going for ever so you have to have the top
evolve into a robust body without it getting
heavy. I used the herbality of the lavender
note to lead in to a mixture of fresh herbal
notes of basil from Madagascar and French
clary sage. It works really well. You’ll
also get a lovely subtle hint of nutmeg through
that herbal accord which helps to fix it as
well as providing a softer edge to the herbality.
Finally I used Indonesian patchouli to form
the core of the end notes. It gives such a
gloriously rich impression of earthy woody
notes.
When I created the fragrance
I probably had more of a male user in mind
but women friends I have asked have really
liked it too. One thing is for sure - there
is no gender bias when you talk about energy
– we all need a boost every once in
a while.