I’m a little uncomfortable
talking about my work. I don’t want
to say “you should smell my fragrance
this way” or “you should have
this image in your head when you spray it
on yourself” because it can be so limiting.
On the other hand I think people like to know
what they are smelling and I hope that by
talking about the ingredients I have used
and why I used them can add to your enjoyment
of the perfume.
From the spice citrus opening
notes through the aquatic florality to the
woods and musks there is a real sense of lightness
and continuity. I am very pleased with the
balance of the structure. The themes don’t
compete with each other. Even though each
individual element has a character of its
own they complement each other as the perfume
dries down.
The initial notes of the
fragrance come from a mixture of Sicilian
bergamot and Italian mandarin combined with
cardamom from Guatemala. When constructing
the accord I used both cardamom absolute and
cardamom essential oil which gives a beautifully
full roundness to the spice element and a
perfect accompaniment to the natural freshness
of the citrus notes. The balance of the fragrance
then slowly moves towards the heart where
I have used Bulgarian rose and traces of Mediterranean
cassis with a mixture of tropical fruits on
a background of almost transparent calone.
An important element in this construction
and one which adds very much to the “presence”
of the perfume is the ambrette essential oil.
You normally can’t afford to use it
at high concentration as it costs about €15000
per kilo but it gives such a compelling sparkle
to the heart of the fragrance. A trainee perfumery
assistant who once worked for me described
it as the perfume equivalent of the bubbles
in champagne and I’ve always liked that
description. After about two hours the woods
and musks I have used slowly begin take their
place and as the dry down continues you get
this lovely interplay between the almost dry
Virginian Cedar and the more humid Indonesian
Patchouli. It’s that accord which sustains
the idea of brightness, presence and edge
right through to the end.
This fragrance is the result
of years of joy working in the perfumery world
and I hope you will enjoy it.